It is a simple and vintage outfit, that can be combined with many modern hanfu styles to create an elegant and fantasy look. The Chinese character gui《袿》in the term guiyi (袿衣) refers to the shape of its hanging part which is broad at the top region but becomes narrow at the bottom making it look like a daogui, an ancient measuring tool for Chinese medicine, in appearance. Emperor Jiajing therefore sought the help of Grand Secretary Zhang Zong (1476-1539) to investigate the dress regulations which were governing the casual clothing in ancient time. Recently clothing styles have been outlandish, with no distinc- tion between superior and inferior, so that the people’s proclivities are without restraints. Looking at the different styles of Hanfu from different historical periods, we can summarize several representative winter outfits. The origins of Hanfu can be traced back to the Yellow Emperor period, over 4,000 years ago. The character xuan (玄) can literally be translated as ‘dark’ or ‘black’. According to the Liji in the section Yuzao, it was also a form of ritual clothing for the emperor, who wore it to salute the appearance of the sun outside the eastern gate and when he would listen to notification on the first day of the first month outside the southern gate; and by the Princes of States who wore xuanduan when sacrificing (诸侯玄端以祭).

The xuanduan is a form of yichang, which is composed of an upper garment called yi and a lower garment called chang (skirt). During the Western Zhou dynasty, it was a form of a daily clothing which was worn by the emperor and ordinary commoners. In the Zhou dynasty, it was worn by emperor when they were not at court, on sacrificial occasions by princes, and by scholars when they would pay their respects to their parents in the morning. During the reign of Emperor Jiajing of Ming, sartorial reforms took place. During the Ming dynasty, under the reign of Emperor Jiajing, the xuanduan became a model for the regulations reforms related to yanfu (casual or leisure clothing) worn by the emperor and officials. Most people consider it every type of Han Chinese clothing worn from Antiquity to the end of the Ming Dynasty, though some people expand hanfu to include Han clothing of the Yuan or early Qing. When hanfu came along, it challenged this established notion and proposed a different approach to “traditional clothing”–looking for older clothing styles prior to the absorption of Manchu influence. We have made pictures to instruct on the styles and construction.

Armoured troops have a black hat (M92), while generals may wear a white M39 hat. There have never been clear regulations on the leisure dress of ranked officials, and followers of the outlandish compete in their eccentric dressing, thereby causing greater disorder. I beg that it be modelled on the ancient xuanduan and put in a separate statue to be disseminated throughout the empire, so that noble and base are distinguished.’ The emperor then ordered the creation of the ‘Illustrations of the Loyal and Tranquil Hat and Dress’, to be promulgated by the Board of Rites, together with an imperial edict stating, ‘The Ancestors learned from antiquity and established regulations, so that the court and sacri- ficial dress of ranked officials each had distinctions. The ancient sage kings were attentive to this, and ordered the xuanduan as the leisure dress for officials. In the Finnish Defence Forces, a gray hat is used with M62 uniform and a green one of different design is a part of M91 and M05 winter dress. The ushanka was used by the East German authorities before German reunification, and remained part of the German police uniform in winter afterwards.

The Royal Canadian Mounted Police use a “regulation hat” (between an ushanka and an aviator hat), made of muskrat fur. The Royal Canadian Mounted Police use muskrat ushankas. Wikimedia Commons has media related to Ushankas. 129 The Chinese changshan differed from the Manchu men’s neitao as it only had two slits on the sides, lacking the central front and back slits, and lacked the presence of the matixiu cuffs; the sleeves were also longer than the ones found in the neitao. The Daxiushan, or large-sleeved robe, stands out with its exaggerated, flowing sleeves. According to the Zhouli, the standard xuanduan had sleeves and body of equal size (two chi, two cun long) and the sleeve opening was made of one chi, two cun. The royal princes had to wear a green xuanduan which was decorated with a green trim and decorated with two ranks badges of dragon design (baohe guanfu, lit.

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